Six Days of Paradise: Racing Trans Madeira

I've done several trans races now after getting completely addicted to this style of event a few years ago. I love how they combine adventure, exploration and camaraderie in bucket loads!

In 2024 though, I ‘raced’ the Stone King Rally. Six days across a very rainy Alps and, honestly, it took everything I had just to finish. I was incredibly proud to make it to the end, but it was mentally and physically exhausting, and left me questioning whether I wanted to tackle another six-day race. Especially one involving camping.

Since then, Andes Pacifico and Trans Nomad reminded me exactly why I love multi-day racing, but when Trans Madeira started popping up on my social media and in conversations with friends, I still wasn't convinced. Another six-day race? Did I really want that?

Well, when entries opened, typical me, I signed up.

I spent a winter of squeezing training around Scottish weather and work commitments and come April did as much riding as I could to prepare. Race week soon arrived. The day before the start, I prayed for holiday vibes.

And you know what? Trans Madeira absolutely delivered.

For six unforgettable days we crossed the islands of Madeira and Porto Santo, riding through clouds, eucalyptus forests, ancient levadas, rocky mountain ridges and dusty coastal trails. Somewhere between the incredible riding, campsite sunsets, ocean swims, post-race ice creams and endless laughs with old and new friends, I'd completely forgotten all my worries about another six-day race.

And honestly? It might just be one of the best events I've ever done.

Day One – Wet and Wild Babyyy

Madeira decided to give us a true Scottish welcome. Rain in the days before the race meant we started in some of the wettest and muddiest conditions I've ridden in for a while. We began high up in the clouds with atmospheric fog swirling around us before getting our first glimpses of what a special island Madeira is. After completing a tough hike a bike, with the classic one foot forward, slipping two back, the organisers sent us a message saying:

"Congratulations for surviving what race director just baptised as the Impossible Climb – we never saw that so muddy!"

The stages (and liaisons) were full mudders, with slip and slide, tech, and flow. There was a bit of everything! Even some dust as we dropped down to the coast at the end of the day. Some of these stages were my favourite trails of the whole race. Sloppy, technical and just the right amount of spice. It was a proper adventure and a brilliant start to the week.

Day Two – One of the Best Days of the Week

The variety at Trans Madeira is incredible. The day started above the clouds on a trail featured in Loïc Bruni's section of the Gamble movie. Flow, berms, jumps and corners that gave us a taste of Maderia ice! We then dropped into Porto da Cruz, one of the longest and techiest stages of the race and one of my absolute favourites. Rocks, roots, and that feeling of willing your hands to hold on just a little bit longer. The views out to the ocean helped distract from the sore hands.

After lunch we climbed back above the clouds and rattled off more stages. One new trail built for the 2026 race and then another packed with so many G-force berms I couldn't stop grinning from ear to ear while chasing my mate down the hill.

The final transition through Funchal was probably the most technical part of the day, dodging traffic, steep roads and the occasional over-enthusiastic dog! When we got to our camp spot it was time for ice cream, a shower in a Lido and dinner by the sea. Bliss.

Day Three – Adventure Day

Day three felt even less like a race and more like an adventure. We started with a hike-a-bike to some stunning views around the island and from the stats given I genuinely thought it might be an easy day. I was wrong.

The morning stages were brilliant before a big climb up to lunch introduced us to what was known as the "Madeira massage", a switchback descent on cobbled steps! Oh my days. My arms. My hands. The turns were so tight I couldn't get round some of them and the sheer drop off the edge was steep enough that I wasn't particularly keen to try.

After lunch came one of the coolest experiences of the week: the levada tunnels. Headtorches on, we squeezed through low tunnels and balanced along tiny ledges beside flowing water. Being small definitely had its advantages!

The afternoon stages were packed with insanely fun loamy corners and some wee techy rock sections before another huge descent back down to the sea. That evening we camped on a football pitch overlooking the surf and watched the sunset. A perfect evening.

Well, until the sprinklers came on at 11pm. Thankfully I wasn't the one who discovered they had pitched their tent directly on top of one!

Day Four – West Side Goodness

Day four took us west and into a completely different style of riding. Berm after berm of delightful dirt dropping through eucalyptus forests. So much fun. The trails were smooth, flowy and confidence inspiring. It felt like one giant playground.

I got held up by a family of cows on one stage and later had a huuuge OTB in pretty much the only rocks of the day. I ended up stuck in some impressively spiky gorse and brambles and had to be rescued by a photographer!

Four days in and both body and mind were feeling gooood!

Day Five – Living the Dream

More dreamy dirt. More berms. More flowers. More views. I genuinely never got over how beautiful Madeira is.

The day started with a rude awakening of rocks after a night listening to questionable cover versions of Sting and Meat Loaf drifting across from a nearby hotel.

Back into the flowy trails, there were cows again. Sadly there was also cow poop… after getting held up near the end of a stage I got sprayed with it while someone attempted a heroic sprint to the finish line. Delightful.

The final trail of the day was a jump trail. Let's just say there was a lot of me shouting:

"I'm sorry, I'm from Scotland, I can't jump!"

A shorter day meant extra time for swimming in the sea, enjoying cocktails in a beach bar, eating ice cream and catching the ferry to Porto Santo. Holiday vibes through and through. Our first non-tented night of the week felt very luxurious. Although, unlike in Stone King, I'd become surprisingly attached to tent life by then.

Day Six – Porto Santo

The final day arrived far too quickly. Porto Santo felt completely different to Madeira. Drier, dustier and almost desert-like in places. The stages were faster and more open, with loose flat corners. We pedalled right around the entire island. By this point everyone knew the race was nearly over and there was a real sense of wanting to soak up every last moment.

The final stage turned into a party train as we flowed down the hillside together, enjoying the last descent of an unforgettable week. Soon enough we were crossing the finish line with high fives and a beer and of course Madeiran Poncha in hand!

I’d done it! Completed another 6 day race, and this time I enjoyed every moment. I'll remember descending through clouds into sunshine. 360 views. Swimming in the sea. Lush forests. Campsite sunsets. Beautiful levadas. Tunnel adventures. Impossible muddy climbs. Varied trails. Cow encounters. Ice creams. Huge smiles and incredible people met along the way.

I'll remember how confidence inspiring my Hope HB916 and new EVO GR4 brakes were all week. Through mud, dust, rocks, roots, stairs, tunnels and six days of racing, it never skipped a beat and let me focus entirely on enjoying the experience.

One of the highlights of the week was the women's field. We had everything from first-time enduro racers to seasoned multi-day racers, freeriders, EDR racers and even Red Bull Rampage riders all sharing the same start line. It could have been intimidating, but everyone celebrated each other's successes, supported one another and had plenty of laughs along the way. It was a brilliant reminder of what makes mountain biking so special, and I feel incredibly lucky to have spent six days riding alongside such inspiring women.

Trans Madeira somehow managed to feel like a race, an adventure and a holiday all at the same time. What a week! Now what’s next?

Words & Pictures by Katie May